The Coral Coast: Pinnacles to Shark Bay

North of Perth, the Coral Coast stretches through some of Western Australia's most striking landscapes: the limestone pillars of the Pinnacles, the white dunes and fishing towns of the Turquoise Coast, the red gorges of Kalbarri and the vast blue bays of the Shark Bay World Heritage Area. It's the first leg of the classic road trip north towards Ningaloo and beyond.

This guide covers the route, the main stops, when to go and how to stay safe on long drives and in hot, remote country.

The route

Two main roads run north from Perth. The Indian Ocean Drive hugs the coast through Lancelin, Cervantes, Jurien Bay and Leeman before joining the Brand Highway near Dongara. The inland Brand Highway is the main freight route. Most travellers take the Indian Ocean Drive for its scenery and coastal towns, then continue north on the North West Coastal Highway past Geraldton.

From Geraldton, roads lead to Kalbarri on the coast, then back to the highway and north to the Shark Bay turn-off at the Overlander Roadhouse.

Lancelin and the Turquoise Coast

Lancelin is known for its large white sand dunes, popular for sandboarding, and for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Further north, Cervantes, Jurien Bay and Green Head are relaxed fishing towns with sheltered beaches, sea lion colonies offshore and good snorkelling in calm weather.

The Pinnacles

In Nambung National Park, near Cervantes, thousands of limestone pillars rise from yellow sand. Some are only a few centimetres high; others are several metres tall. A one-way drive trail and walking paths wind among them, and an interpretive centre explains how they formed. Sunrise and sunset are the most atmospheric times to visit, when the low light casts long shadows. Park entry fees apply.

Geraldton and the Abrolhos

Geraldton is the region's largest city, with services, beaches, museums and a waterfront. The HMAS Sydney II Memorial commemorates the loss of the ship and all its crew in 1941. Offshore, the Houtman Abrolhos Islands are a chain of coral islands known for seabirds, sea lions and shipwrecks, including the Batavia, wrecked in 1629. The islands can be visited on boat or air tours.

Kalbarri

Kalbarri sits where the Murchison River meets the Indian Ocean. Kalbarri National Park has two very different sides.

The river gorges. Inland, the Murchison River has carved a deep gorge through layered red and white sandstone. Nature's Window, a natural rock arch framing the gorge, is one of WA's best-known sights. The Kalbarri Skywalk's two platforms project out beyond the gorge rim for dizzying views. Walking trails range from short lookouts to longer hikes into the gorge.

The coastal cliffs. South of town, sea cliffs, natural bridges and gorges line the coast, with lookouts at Island Rock, Natural Bridge and other points. Humpback whales pass offshore in season.

Inland gorge temperatures can be extreme in summer. Some longer gorge trails close during the hottest months or must be completed early in the day. Carry plenty of water and walk early.

Shark Bay

The Shark Bay World Heritage Area covers more than 2 million hectares of bays, peninsulas and islands. It was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1991.

• Hamelin Pool stromatolites. Stromatolites are layered structures built by microbes, among the oldest forms of life on Earth. Hamelin Pool has one of the best examples of living marine stromatolites in the world.
• Shell Beach. Instead of sand, this beach is made of countless tiny white cockle shells, piled metres deep.
• Denham. Australia's westernmost town is the main base for Shark Bay, with accommodation, boat tours and services.
• Monkey Mia. Wild bottlenose dolphins have visited the shore here for decades. Ranger-supervised dolphin experiences let visitors see them up close.
• Francois Peron National Park. Red cliffs, white beaches and turquoise water. The northern part of the park needs a high-clearance four-wheel drive and tyre-pressure knowledge for its soft sand tracks.
• Wildlife. Shark Bay's seagrass meadows support one of the world's largest populations of dugongs, along with turtles, rays and sharks.

When to go

• Winter and spring (June to October) are the most comfortable months, and spring brings wildflowers along the route.
• Summer (December to February) is very hot, especially inland. Plan walks for early morning.
• Autumn (March to May) is warm and often settled.

Suggested itineraries

Long weekend. Drive the Indian Ocean Drive to Cervantes, see the Pinnacles at sunset, explore Jurien Bay and return.

One week. Pinnacles, Geraldton, two nights in Kalbarri and two or three nights in Shark Bay.

Two to three weeks. Continue north to Coral Bay, Exmouth and the Ningaloo Reef.

Common mistakes

• Underestimating distances. Shark Bay is a long way from Perth, and the Shark Bay peninsula alone adds hundreds of kilometres.
• Walking gorge trails in the heat of the day.
• Taking a two-wheel-drive vehicle onto soft sand tracks.
• Driving at night, when kangaroos, goats and cattle are on the road.

Travelling with children

The Coral Coast suits families, with sandboarding at Lancelin, calm beaches at Jurien Bay, the Pinnacles drive and the dolphins at Monkey Mia. Plan shorter driving days, carry plenty of water and snacks, and keep children well back from gorge edges and cliffs.

Wildflowers on the Coral Coast

In late winter and spring, wildflowers bloom along the Coral Coast, especially around Kalbarri and the Geraldton region. Look for everlastings, kangaroo paws and other species. Take only photos.

Fuel and supplies

Towns along the route have fuel and supplies, but distances between them can be long, especially on the Shark Bay peninsula. Fill up at every opportunity.

Accommodation

Towns along the Coral Coast have caravan parks, motels, holiday rentals and resorts. Book ahead in school holidays and peak season.

Key points

The Coral Coast runs from the Pinnacles to Shark Bay, about 830 km north of Perth. Allow a week, travel in winter or spring, walk gorges early, carry water and fuel, and respect Shark Bay's fragile World Heritage environment.